1000 Lumen 10 Watt Super Bright, Cool White LED Module
REQUIRES CURRENT LIMITING & MOUNTING TO HEATSINK WITH THERMAL PAD: Case Temp. <45C max.
Super Bright Cool White LED.
Color Temperature: 6000-6500
Max Reverse Voltage: 5V
View angle: 160deg.
Forward Voltage Drop: 9-11VDC
Forward Current: 1000mA Max
ALUMINUM BASE SURFACE MOUNT PACKAGE Sq: 20mm H: 3.5mm WT: .011
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium which is known to the State of California to cause cancer and which is known to the State of California to cause birth defects and/or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
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As of August 2018 the State of California has changed the requirements of the “Prop 65” law. We now must list on our website any possible chemicals the can cause cancer, birth defects or reproductive problem.
As an example:
ABS plastic contains styrene
PVC wire insulation can contain Di(2-ethylhexyl)phthalate (DEHP)
electrolytic capacitors can contain Ethylene glycol
Brass can contain Lead
flame retardant pc boards can contain Tetrabromobisphenol A (TBBPA)
Aluminum alloys can contain Chromium
To put it simply we are a small company and do not have the resources to test every single part, so we list every thing as hazardous. Please recycle all electronic parts responsibly and under no circumstance eat, drink or smoke these parts and wash your hands after touching!
Replaced my Microscope Light Source With One of These
I have an old USSR era microscope that has great optics, but a sickly 12v halogen light source. You have to use a blue filter to get the light anywhere near natural color and the intensity is poor for the amount of glass the light has to go through to get to my eye. So I used this 10 watt LED and the inexpensive, 10 watt LED driver to switch out light sources.
My main concern was heat. Halogens dont care about the heat but LEDs certainly do. The Bulb enclosure was a pretty roomy aluminum box. I was able to cut and grind down an old CPU heat sink to fit snugly, fins facing down, and drilled vent holes in the sides of the box to increase airflow. I soldered up the chip and attached it to the heatsink with some screws through the mounting holes of the chip into the tapped holes I drilled in the heatsink. I used thermal grease designed for CPU chips, so Im hoping it has enough throughput for the heat from this thing. Im not an engineer, so I was just giving as much cooling I could think of and hope it is enough.
The whole contraption works really well. The light is blinding I can control that with a diaphragm that is built into the microscope stage and the color is correct without any filters. The only problem I encountered was that I soldered the power wires through the holes in the attachment points for better physical strength and they protrude just enough to short out the power through the heatsink. Easy fix though by slightly bending the tabs up to avoid the heatsink. I guess these were designed for surface mounting. Anyway, at full bore, I measure the heat on the outside of the enclosure at 114~120 F. Pretty hot, but the light didnt dim or trip its thermal protection feature. Actually cooler than the halogen, so that is good for looking at live specimens on the microscope stage. I might add a small muffin fan to the outside of the enclosure to increase the airflow over the heatsink fins just to increase the lifespan of the chip.
Really proud of how well this worked out...most of my projects do not come to a nearly as satisfying conclusion as this one!
- Daniel Goodale-Porter, VA
Beware limiting current
Beware that these will not drive 10W LEDs at full power for more than about 20 seconds cold. LED current increases as die temperature climbs, and eventually the short circuit protection of the drivers kick in to turn them off. I made an amazingly bright light bar with individual 10W driver modules 31557PS, but it only stays lit for about 20 seconds for the reasons described.
Awesome LED module
I bought ten of these modules, wired three in series & connected to the 30 watt AC power supply / DC converter designed to drive LED modules. I then installed the three modules equally spaced apart on a 1X 1 x 32 square stock aluminum tube. I then installed them into a 2 X 4 fluorescent fixture. after removing three burned out 32watt T8 bulbs These LED modules out perform the fluorescent tubes hands down. I was so impressed, I converted the other two fixtures. I still cant believe that I have only a total of 30 watts of LED providing more bright white light than 96 watts of fluorescent light from one fixture. Truely Amazing. Will definitely be ordering more of these!!
- William, CT
Fabulous, Fabulous, Fabulous
For those who have used these LEDs you know I dont need to say more. For those who have not, I will expand my review. I have used these LED units on two devices I made for myself. The first was a bike light second to none. I see bike lights selling for 350$. I built one using this LED for about 20 bucks and some machining. It destroys the competition. Now after all these years of having to stare into other peoples high beams I am capable of some photonic wrath of my own. I wish I could show the video of this bike light in action. The other device I made was a yard flood light. Every one sells LED yard spot lights but not flood lights. And those spot lights are over priced and under engineered. You should ask yourself how can you possibly sink and radiate 20 watts of LED power inside of a plastic enclosure with no external heat sink. And ask yourself why do those same commercial manufacturers claim a 50,000 hour LED life but provide only a 1 year warranty. The most hours there can be in any one year is 8784. And half of those hours for most of us are daylight. I measured 1160 lumens at the LED surface with my general lux meter. A word of warning though. You should heed the specs closely for the time and temp limits regarding anode/cathode tolerance. I made a fixture for soldering mine that sinks the connections and keeps them at a common ground state. OVERHEATING WILL REDUCE LIGHT OUTPUT! For my floodlight I used 18 of these LEDs switchable in banks of three. The design of my flood makes it possible to send light left, right, or forward. With over 20,000 lumens total output it is a yard light worthy of the name YARD LIGHT. I added a visor to the flood to keep it from offending my neighbors or low flying aircraft.
- Jim F., MN
My fav leds.
This is my favorite of all the LEDs ive tried.
Amazing light output in a small package, very nice easy solder pads, very low cost.
I use 10w dropping resistors for pulsed units and for continuous duty, the #31557-PS drivers.
Great experiences so far, with both.